THE SUNDAY TELEGRAPH
Coffee, Sir? - Make it yourself
then
Sloppy
serving, rude remarks,
alarming disturbances during pudding.....
Rachel Sylvester meets the comedy waiters
paid to wreck your evening.
"Have you finished madam?" the waiter asks a grey-haired
lady dressed in Armani. She leans back so that he can take her
plate. He leans forward, takes a potato and puts it in his mouth.
Then he turns to the rest of the table and hollers: "Pass
your plates down." Astounded, the guests obey, and a young
man in a striped shirt and tie somehow finds himself carrying
the dirty pile to the kitchen.
On the next table the wine waiter
is topping up glasses. He fills one so full that it spills over
on to the cloth, but the next guest receives barely half an inch
in the bottom of his glass. When he turns around to complain,
the waiter has disappeared to the far side of the room and is
busy swigging some claret from a private supply hidden behind
the curtains.
"Waiter," shouts a
more courageous guest, "could I have another fork?"
Le garcon waves a scruffily bandaged arm in the air, gives a
look of absolute disdain and tells him to get it himself.
Basil Fawlty is alive and well
and standing up for waiters' rights, in the form of a Birmingham-based
outfit called Spanner In The Works - three young men and one
woman. The latest thing to hit the corporate entertainment world,
they are getting two or three bookings each week from companies
who employ them to break the ice. For a fee - they will "ruin"
the evening.
Steven Wattison is unashamedly
uncouth and arrogant throughout the night.
He will answer all orders as rudely as possible, and poke an
ashtray under a guest's nose until the victim, with a confused
sideways glance, taps his or her cigarette into it.
His brother, Neil Wattison is
an alcoholic wine waiter. He gets progressively drunk and more
obnoxious during the evening until he is sitting nursing a bottle
in the corner of the room.
Becky Bikkett plays a gossipy
waitress, who specialises in giving fashion and make-up tips
to the guests and in stirring up office romances. "It's
amazing what you can do," she says. "I've often managed
to get two avowed enemies together by the end of the evening."
The workman appears after the
starter to change a light bulb, reappears after the main course
"to check the ceiling above the table for asbestos",
narrowly missing guests' heads with his ladder; and finally disappears
in a puff of smoke when his electric drill blows up at the end
of the meal.
"At that point," says Steven Wattison, "people
go - 'Oh, it's a joke!'."
The great British public, this
outfit has discovered, is extraordinarily resilient. Guests endure
all manner of rudeness and eccentricity without batting an eyelid,
let alone bandying a complaint.
"We start off subtly, and get more ridiculous through the
evening. People really will put up with extreme amounts,"
says Steven Wattison.
During pre-dinner drinks, Becky
Bikkett proffers canapes to the guests, consisting of carrot,
banana, a wine gum and a hula-hoop on a stick. "You'd be
amazed how many people just eat them without a second look,"
she says.
There are standard elements to
the routine, but the evening is individualised for each company.
The icily unnatural atmosphere of the office party is perfect
for their work. "We're helped by the fact that everyone's
on their best behaviour because their boss is there," said
Steven Wattison.
Fawlty Towers' Manuel has a serious
rival. And the success of the gag depends entirely on old-fashioned
British snobbery. "English people think that if a waiter
even talks to you, he's being impertinent," says Steve Wattison,
"but they never ever complain." The motto of the Spanners
says it all:
"British service at its best."
Rachel
Sylvester -THE SUNDAY TELEGRAPH
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